I design and print sublimated transfers, send to you and you press at home onto your shirts with your heat press (will not work with home iron or a Cricut press, a heat press is required to achieve even pressure and temperature).
This is for ONE (1) transfer. It will come to you on a 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper. I scale it as large as I can to fit that page. If there is any space at the bottom, I print a few smaller images for you to use as a tester.
Also for your shirts:
It is recommended that you have at least 65% polyester in your shirt blend.
It is ideal to have a shirt that is 100% poly, so the more poly content, the brighter the color will be. I really wouldn't go under 50%.
It is also ideal to have a white shirt. The lighter the shirt, the brighter the color will be.
A heat press must be used. You will not get enough heat or pressure with a home iron or a Cricut press.
If you only have a home iron or a Cricut press, do not buy.
Heat press stats:
400 for 60 sec. is the recommended time and temp, but I usually press at 380-390 for 45-50 sec depending on the material. Colored shirts need to be pressed on the lower side. (if your shirt is a tri-blend with any rayon it it, I would lower the time/temp just a bit). IF YOU ARE NEW AT THIS, PRACTICE FIRST-MAYBE ON SCRAP MATERIAL. I will put a small design on the paper for you to cut off and use for practice before using a good shirt.
If you are experienced and already have your time/temp/pressure formula set, then USE YOUR REGULAR FORMULA.
I use Beaver TexPrint-R paper from a Sawgrass printer with SubliJet inks.
Make sure your press has the correct temperature. You may want to buy/use a laser heat reader to check. Presses may be calibrated differently and the cheaper presses may not maintain the correct temperature or pressure. I recommend a press made by Stahls or George Knight.
Butcher paper from a deli dept is recommended to put over the shirt, and it should cover the entire shirt hanging off the edges of the press. This way your press will not get any ink on it which can transfer over to other shirts.
Do not use your teflon sheet as it may get ink on it and it retains head and may affect your temperature.
USING KRAFT PAPER OR PARCHMENT PAPER MAY LEAVE YELLOW OR BROWN STAINS ON YOUR SHIRT. Make sure you are using Butcher Paper.
Use light to medium pressure-too much pressure will give you press marks.
Make sure you lint roll your shirt before pressing otherwise, you will get light blue dots, also pre press for 10 seconds.
I would practice on one shirt first to make sure you get all your settings correct before you press a bunch of shirts.
1) Cover the bottom press platen with a protective paper (butcher paper from the meat department of a grocery store) sheet to prevent bleed from image and/or shirt dyes.
2) Place the shirt, imaging side face up, on the protective paper and lint roll the entire area that will come into contact by the press.
3) Place a piece of protective paper between the layers of the fabric to prevent the image bleeding through to the other side.
4) Lightly mist transfer with DyeTrans Pro Spray. (to keep the transfer in place)
5) Place the transfer on the fabric, smooth wrinkles.
6) Cover with protective paper. This paper must cover the entire area of the material that comes into contact with the heat platen. do not use your teflon sheet as ink may transfer to it and it can transfer to other shirts.
7) Press with Temp/Time/Pressure settings listed above.
THE PAPER YOU RECEIVE MAY HAVE AN IMAGE THAT IS LIGHTER THAN EXPECTED. I ASSURE YOU IT WILL BE DARKER/BRIGHTER ONCE IT IS PRESSED ON THE SHIRT.
*NOTE: I use a Sawgrass printer, Sublijet inks and TexPrint-R paper
I apologize, but I do not accept returns on any printed product or offer any refunds on printed products or digital downloads. Please make sure you order exactly what you want before making your purchase. Did you make a mistake? Did I make a mistake? It happens, just contact me.
For the mug transfer, you need the equipment and the experience to apply this to a mug.